A kitchen renovation is not one difficult job. It is forty small jobs in a chain, and each one sets a dimension the next has to live with. Break the chain and you pay twice: once for the work, once to undo it. The most expensive mistake in a Portland kitchen is not an over-priced cabinet line or the wrong tile. It is correct work done in the wrong order.
A client in North Portland had cabinets installed on a Tuesday. On the Friday they decided the 30-inch slide-in range they had sketched around should really be a 36-inch pro range. Honestly the better kitchen, and the range itself was only $2,100 more. Everything after that was sequence: two boxes rebuilt, a re-cut of a countertop already templated, a wider hood with new ducting, and a 50-amp circuit re-pulled through a wall painted eleven days earlier. The correction came to $11,400 and three weeks.
Why the order is the whole game
Every trade measures off the one before it. The plumber locates the drain from the sink base, the sink base comes from the cabinet layout, the layout comes from the appliances, and outlet heights are set off a backsplash that starts at the top of a countertop somebody still has to choose. Change anything upstream and everything downstream moves. Rough work is also cheap while walls are open and dear once closed: a 240-volt circuit costs a couple of hundred dollars to move at rough-in and $1,200 to $2,500 after drywall, paint and cabinets.
Three decisions to lock before demolition
When a contractor says selections must be final, they do not mean you have chosen a style. They mean you have model numbers.
1. Appliance specifications, by model number
Not a 36-inch range. The actual model. Cutout width is not overall width. A counter-depth refrigerator runs 24 to 27 inches deep; a standard one is 32 to 34 and will stand three inches proud of your cabinets forever. A panel-ready dishwasher needs a door built by the cabinet shop. The electrical follows the model too: a dual-fuel range may want 50 amps where the slide-in wanted 40, and a hood above roughly 400 CFM triggers make-up air in many jurisdictions. The National Kitchen and Bath Association publishes the clearance guidelines most of these numbers come from.
2. Sink and faucet
The sink sets the base cabinet. A 30-inch undermount needs a 33-inch base; a 33-inch farmhouse sink needs a 36-inch base built to carry an apron, which is an instruction to the cabinet shop, not a site fix. Undermounts are bonded to the stone in the shop, so the sink must exist before the slab is cut. Wall-mount faucets and pot fillers are settled at rough plumbing, because after drywall there is nowhere to put the valve body.
3. The dimensioned cabinet layout
A plan and elevations with every box width on them. Cabinetry carries the longest lead time on the job, six to ten weeks semi-custom and ten to sixteen custom, and order it wrong and you wait that twice. Measure first, because old Portland houses are not square: our guide to measuring a room properly covers the numbers a cabinet shop needs.
Skip these and the bill is ordinary, not exotic: an appliance change after the cabinet order runs $2,800 to $6,500; a drain moved after the slab is cut runs $1,800 to $4,000, because it takes a countertop section with it.
The correct sequence, step by step
- Design and final selections, locked. Nothing after this point should be a category. Everything should be a product with a SKU and a lead time, because every step below measures off it.
- Permits. A permit is issued against a scope, so file once the scope is fixed or you will be amending it. This runs in parallel with ordering, so it costs no calendar time.
- Demolition. Now, not a day earlier, because it is the point of no return. Pre-1978 houses, which is most of inner Portland, require an EPA lead-safe certified firm. This is also when the job tells you the truth about rot and knob-and-tube.
- Structural. Beams, headers, posts, subfloor, all of it before any service is routed, because plumbers and electricians need final framing to drill into.
- Rough plumbing. Drain center for the sink base, dishwasher stub, ice maker line, valve bodies. It precedes electrical because drains obey gravity: wire routes around a pipe, a pipe cannot route around wire.
- Rough electrical. Circuits, boxes, cans, under-cabinet feeds, appliance runs. Outlet heights are set off the finished counter and backsplash, which is why step one had to include counter thickness.
- HVAC. Hood duct, relocated registers, make-up air. In a remodel this scope is small, so it follows the other two. On a new build the order reverses, because duct is the least flexible thing in a wall.
- Rough inspection. Nothing gets covered until the inspector has seen it. Insulate early and you will be cutting finished drywall back open. Leave two to five days of float.
- Insulation and drywall. Then prime and put the first coat of color on. Cutting in around bare drywall takes an hour; around installed cabinets it takes a day.
- The flooring decision point. Floor now and run it under the cabinets, or hold it until the boxes are set. Both answers are defensible. See below before you pick.
- Cabinetry. Shimmed plumb and level, screwed to blocking, scribed to the walls. Level matters because the countertop is templated off the cabinet tops, so every error here gets cast in stone, literally.
- Countertop template and fabrication. Template on installed cabinets with the sink and cooktop on site, then the slab goes to the shop. This is the gap in the middle of the job.
- Backsplash. After the counter, always. The bottom course sits on it and is scribed to it. Tile first and you will be caulking a shadow line for a decade.
- Appliances. Set once counters are in and grout has cured, so the dishwasher clips to stone rather than to plywood.
- Plumbing and electrical trim. Faucet, disposal, dishwasher, plates, pendants, under-cabinet lights, with trim carpentry alongside.
- Paint, final coat. After everything that can scuff a wall has come through the door. Touch-up is a scheduled day, not an afterthought.
- Final inspection and punch list. Then a slow walk with a flashlight and tape, before the final payment.
The same sequence as a calendar
Durations assume a 120 to 200 square foot kitchen with no addition. Steps one and two happen before anyone is on site.
| Step | Typical duration | Who does it |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Design and selections locked | 2 to 6 weeks | You and your designer |
| 2. Permits | 1 to 4 weeks, in parallel | Contractor or permit service |
| 3. Demolition | 1 to 3 days | Demo crew, lead-certified if pre-1978 |
| 4. Structural | 1 to 5 days | Framer, engineer if load-bearing |
| 5. Rough plumbing | 1 to 2 days | Licensed plumber |
| 6. Rough electrical | 1 to 3 days | Licensed electrician |
| 7. HVAC and hood duct | 1 to 2 days | HVAC contractor |
| 8. Rough inspection | Half a day, plus 2 to 5 days float | City inspector |
| 9. Insulation, drywall, prime | 4 to 7 days | Drywall crew and painter |
| 10. Flooring, if floor-first | 2 to 4 days | Flooring installer |
| 11. Cabinet installation | 2 to 4 days | Cabinet installer |
| 12. Counter template and fabrication | 10 to 20 days | Stone fabricator |
| 13. Backsplash | 2 to 3 days | Tile setter |
| 14. Appliance delivery and set | 1 day | Appliance installer |
| 15. Plumbing and electrical trim | 1 to 2 days | Plumber, electrician, carpenter |
| 16. Paint, final coat | 2 to 3 days | Painter |
| 17. Final inspection and punch list | 1 day, plus scheduling | Inspector and contractor |
Added up honestly, a straightforward kitchen is six to ten weeks on site, not the four people quote each other at parties. The slippage past ten comes from decisions still open the morning demolition started.
The countertop gap nobody warns you about
Stone cannot be templated from a drawing, and a fabricator is right to refuse. Template happens on installed cabinets, with the sink on site and the faucet holes decided. Fabrication is then seven to fifteen business days, longer for a mitered edge or an ordered slab.
That means two to three weeks with cabinets and no counters, no sink and no dishwasher, arriving exactly when the room starts to look finished. Households that plan for the gap find it annoying. Households that discover it find it unbearable, and unbearable is when people spend money to go faster.
- Book the template for the morning after cabinet installation, and get that date in writing when you sign.
- Hold your slab during selections. A hold is usually free; the one you liked will otherwise be gone.
- Cut temporary tops. About $120 of plywood screwed to the boxes protects them and gives you a surface.
- Build a kitchen elsewhere: refrigerator, microwave and a folding table, on a circuit outside the work.
- Book the tile setter for the week after counter installation, not the week of.
- Give the plumber the install date the day you get it. Plumbers book out three weeks.
The flooring decision point
Floor first, wall to wall under the cabinets. Eight to twelve percent more material, but a future layout change stays trivial and a failed dishwasher slides out in five years instead of sitting trapped.
Cabinets first, floor stopping at the toe kick. Less material, and mandatory for floating floors: click laminate pinned under loaded cabinets cannot expand and will buckle in the first warm month. Glue-down vinyl, tile and nail-down hardwood run underneath safely. Going this way, shim the dishwasher opening with plywood the thickness of the finished floor. A $400 to $900 argument avoided later.
Where the ten thousand dollars comes from
- Appliance change after the cabinet order: $2,800 to $6,500
- Circuit moved after drywall and paint: $1,200 to $2,500
- Drain relocated after the slab is fabricated: $1,800 to $4,000
- Backsplash tiled before the counter went in: $600 to $1,600
- Dishwasher trapped by a floor laid around it: $400 to $900, plus a patch
- Two weeks lost to a lead time nobody asked about: $1,500 to $4,000 in rent and remobilization
Any two of those on one job is ten thousand dollars, and we have seen four on one kitchen. The saving is not clever negotiation; it is a decision made in March rather than May. For how the same money hides inside the bids, read what a renovation really costs.
How bumfuzzledjane.com holds the sequence for you
A good contractor already knows this order. The difficulty is that holding the sequence is a decisions job, not a construction job, and the decisions are yours. Somebody has to say in week three that the range still has not been chosen.
That is Renovation Advisory, at $2,200 a month: bid review, a specification the trades can build from, change orders answered inside 24 hours, and no commission from any supplier, which is why we can tell you a line item is wrong. For a kitchen still being planned, a Room Design Plan from $1,450 produces the dimensioned layout, and a Design Direction Call at $295 says in ninety minutes whether the scope is sane. Across several phases, the Whole-Home Concept keeps them talking.
There is finished work on the projects page and more on budgets in small bathroom renovations and the rest of the journal. When you have a date for step one, get in touch. bumfuzzledjane.com would rather hear from you the week before demolition than the week after.